Circus tents

Have you ever been to the circus in Barcelona? I have, but just to one of those big and "modern" circuses focused more to attract adult audiences. The truth is that I would have liked to go to a circus as a child, one of those traditional ones, those who assemble and remove their tents in the few open spaces left in the city.

Those circus in which artists arrive in trucks and vans, the ones that exercise a fascination among those of us who do not live on the road, the ones that make us wonder what it is like to live in a special community, a nomadic family.

The truth is that circuses have changed a lot since I was little. Luckily, they still visit us. For the record, I like that they are adapting to changing times. And by the way, there is a circus school working in the Parc del Forum. It is called La Central del Circ, and is meant to be a space for developing circus activities that the City Council prompted, and where training courses are held, in case if anyone is thinking about it!

Encants Vells market

It had been a while since I had last been around the market of Fira de Bellcaire, also known as the Encants Vells market, and I have to admit I was surprised by its vitality, especially considering it was a weekday morning. The market was full of visitors, buyers, onlookers and vendors. I have to say, though, that the idea I had in my mind was slightly more romantic than  what I found there.
Anyway, the point is that the market of Encants Vells is still as alive as ever, and the idea is to continue this way when the new Encants Nous is open during this year. This new market will have doubled the area of ​​the fair and will facilitate the access to traders and visitors, and the loading and unloading of goods.
Anyway, the Fira de Bellcaire, which is held since the fourteenth century, is one of the oldest markets in Europe, so there are few things that can be considered more "Barcelonian". 
And by the way...who does not have or had any object from Encants Vells? I remember I bught a foam mattress a few years ago, and for the record, I still have it. I do not intend to change it: when I have guests who sleep at home on it they tell me that it is extremely comfortable!

Panellets

I have mentioned a couple of times on this blog the fact that the pastry counters in Barcelona change depending on the season of the year, and there are some sweets that have "starring" appearances during only a few days, as the "coca de Sant Joan" or the Easter Cake.


On November 1st the undisputed star is the panellet, that will be eaten together with sweet potatoes and chestnuts. This year it looks that the weather is quite appropriate and we are not celebrating the "Castanyada" in short sleeves...

In case anyone wants to try to do panellets, it is never a bad moment, and HERE you have a recipe. If you try it and make some, please let me know...I love them and I haven't had any yet!

Cinema at Montjuïc

One thing about traditions is that they are established over time. In Barcelona we have some very old ones (like the dancing egg or the Fira de Santa Llúcia) but fortunately we are also creating new ones.

For me, a recent tradition that has a special place on my agenda is the cinema outdoors in the summer. I do not know how long it takes to turn a habit into a tradition, but I do know that for me it is enough with the 10 years that the Cinema at Montjuïc has celebrated.
And do not tell me it's not an important tradition to be preserved. Going up the mountain with friends up to the castle of Montjuïc, installing oneself on the lawn, having picnic while hearing live music and then watching a movie is priceless!

And feeling the need to wear a jacket in the summer heat of Barcelona is also priceless!

Motorcycles

You just have to walk down through streets of Barcelona to see that it is one of the European cities with more motorcycles. In fact, only Rome has more of them. When you see how they position themselves in the red crosslights to leave first then you understand that they are the queens of the asphalt.
It's one of the things that often draws attention to people who visit, especially if they have to drive around Barcelona, and they are not used to having to think about having motorbikes everywhere around! Even us, people from Barcelona, who are used to them, find sometimes in tnese situations created between motorbikes and other vehicles.
I am, myself, sometimes a pedestrian, a cyclist, a motorcyclist and motorist in Barcelona, and  I also use public transportation. I think we can all live together if we all are willing to cooperate. Actually, problems are caused not by the type of vehicle, but by who and how they are driven it!

Horchata at Poble Nou

I like seasonal products because you have to wait to the right time of the year, and when they arrive, they are much more appreciated. Furthermore, we link them to certain habits and ideas, so you are transported to that time of the year just by remembering them.

That happens to me with horchata. Its season is limited to summer, and that is why it is inseparable from the heat, the sun and the muggy weather.

And in Barcelona it is clear that drinking horchata is already a tradition, especially at a terrace. There are historical horchaterías, like "Tio Che" at La Rambla del Poble Nou, which this summer celebrated its Centennial! The founders were Joan and Josefa, who, coming from a village in the province of Alicante, began serving horchatas in the Born one century ago. And their family is still cooling the hot afternoons in Barcelona with this nutritious drink. Congratulations Tío Che!

The dancing egg (L'ou com balla)

The main purpose of ​​this blog, as its name suggests, is to collect some things that are really typical in Barcelona. And the truth is that there must be few traditions that are more typical from Barcelona than l'Ou com balla (The dancing egg), held on the day of Corpus Christi. although it is also celebrated in other catalan cities and villages, this tradition has its origin in the Cathedral of Barcelona, and is known at least since 1673.

The idea of this celebration is to make an egg dance. The egg has previously been emptied, of course, and you can see it dancing in fountains of cloisters, courtyards and gardens that are decorated for the occasion with spring flowers and fruits.

If you have never seen it before, it is worth going to see the dancing egg, which moves playfully over the water. It is a simple but very mysterious ritual at the same time, which rememorates the consecrated host and has also clear references to the fertility of the egg.
The tradition was lost for a while and the city recovered it some years ago, so now you can go see the egg dance in various locations in Ciutat Vella, as the cloister of the Cathedral, la Casa de l'Ardiaca, l'Ateneu Barcelonès, the Archive of the Crown of Aragon or the Museu Frederic Marès.

Balcony blinds

When the good weather starts, one must assume an objective fact: Barcelona, in the summer, is a hot city.
And long before there was air conditioning, it was already hot. So the locals had to protect themselves against the sun. And they found a solution that is ideal from my point of view: the shutters on the outside, leaving them hanging over the balcony.
Thus they stop direct sunlight, but they also let the air in in order to get the natural cross ventilation (if there is a little breeze blowing, the heat is more bearable) and, unlike horizontal blinds, they preserve a certain degree of privacy.
I will not say I thank an air conditioner in the summer in the city, but if we don't have one... what could be better than the these typical blinds?

Hydraulic mosaic of the Eixample

One of the things that amaze me of the houses of Barcelona are the mosaics of many floors of the Eixample. This pavement is closely linked to the Modernist movement, and for that reason it is so commonly found in Barcelona. It was a technique imported from France that was very popular among the families of Barcelona's high society.
One of the leading manufacturers was Escofet, who collaborated with architects as Domènech i Montaner and Gaudí in developing unique hydraulic mosaics, such as those found inside the Pedrera, hexagonally shaped and green-apple coloured, which later inspired the tiles of Passeig de Gràcia.
There was a time when many people, trying to be practical, covered these tiles with other materials such as wood flooring or ceramic which looked more "modern" and uniform. Fortunately, it now appears that there is some consensus in considering these ceramics positively and therefore make the effort to preserve them. Some have beautiful designs, others are more discreet, but they all have their charm, and are still produced using traditional methods, so can be considered unique pieces.
Those of you who have this kind of mosaic at home, take care of it and preserve it!

Chocolate at Petritxol street

Petritxol street is special for many reasons. Some reasons why:

- Because, despite being within walking distance of the saturated Rambla, and despite linking the busy Portaferrissa and Plaça del Pi, it conveys a feeling of returning to the past.

- Because it has ceramic tiles along its 130 meters of length, which explain stories that happened in that street.

- Because it was the first entirely pedestrian street of Barcelona. Even its name is said to come from the word "Pedritxol", due to the stones placed at the entrance to the street that prevented the carriages from entering it.

- Because of its unique combination of inimitable and art galleries and what we call "granges". Among the former there is the gallery Parés. It opened in 1840, and was a meeting place for lovers of art, who after the visit used to have something to eat in the area. And among the "granges" there are still surviving the Pallaresa and Dulcinea.

- For the infinite pleasure that gives eating chocolate with sponge fingers, a Swiss chocolate with "churros" or simply a dish of cream while you enjoy all those reasons!

Late-night shows at Verdi cinemas

I was surprised to hear that a classic of Barcelona's night is back: (sessions golfes) at Verdi cinemas. And the reason I was surprised was because it seems difficult to find good news as these nowadays. Seven years after canceling the late-night shows due to the fall in the number of spectators, these sessions are taken up again. And by the way, with a good price: € 5.50!

I remember having been there several times, although I admit that I usually fall asleep when I go to the cinema too late, especially with a fully belly after dinner at some restaurant in Gràcia. I remember a French musical movie French called On connate la chanson, which I found good enough as to keep me awake!

Luckily, another tradition from Barcelona that does not go away: the late-night sessions of Verdi cinemas! 

The Race of the Noses

La Cursa del Nassos (literally, The Race of the Noses) is also a tradition of the streets of Barcelona.

Actually, the tradition is going out to the streets and looking for the Man of the Noses, the man who has as many noses as days are in the year, and who can only be seen in Barcelona on 31 December.

But running through the streets of Barcelona with more than 10,000 other runners is a great way to say goodbye to the current year. I have not done it, but I've seen the race go by and encouraged the runners.

And still another tradition of this day: the good intentions for the new year. Mine is to run the Race of the Noses 2012!

Happy New Year everyone! And do not worry, there is a play in the theater in Barcelona that wisely says: next year will be better!

Santa Llúcia Fair

Is there any Barcelonian who, as a child, has not visited with his parents the fair of Santa Llúcia? And of course, bought there everything necessary for Christmas: the nativity figures, with the Caganer as undisputed big star, the Christmas tree, the moss, different kinds of plants and herbs...

Santa Llúcia, by the way, was a Sicilian martyr of the third century. The medieval legend says she was subjected to a trial in which she was punished and they took her eyes out, but miraculously she kept watching. That is why she is the patron saint of the blind and people with sight problems, together with the dressmakers and tailors, among other professions. Her festivity is celebrated on December 13.

This year the fair of santa Llúcia celebrates 225 years! It is one of the most deeply rooted and ancient Christmas traditions in Barcelona, ​​documented since 1786. In fact, years ago there were several fairs, with stalls placed together by type of goods sold. Over the time, however, they were united into a single one, and currently there are about 270 stalls altogether.

All the inhabitants of the city, of every social class, visited the fair sooner or later. It is said that it was a good place to arrange weddings!

For those who have not been there yet this year: it will be open until December 22, from 10:30 am to 8:30 pm. When the fair closes we will have to go to the one that is held at the Gran Via.

Chestnut stalls

Every year, a couple of weeks before the festivity of All Saints (November, 1st), stalls selling chestnuts and sweet potatoes are settled in the streets of Barcelona. They are with us until well after Christmas and Epiphany. In fact, selling chestnuts in the streets of Barcelona is an ancient tradition. There is evidence that in the late eighteenth century there were over two hundred stalls stops on the streets of Call, La Boqueria and Hospital.

Many of us imagine the figure of chestnut sellers roasting chestnuts in front of the fire, warm enough, giving us a cone made ​​of newspaper, full of steaming chestnuts. They are energetic fruits that are supposed to help us beat the cold.

But it's been more than a month since All Saints and it is still warm in Barcelona. In fact, this was the second warmest month of November of the last century. I have a theory that states that the seasons come now later than before, but that is a feeling without any scientific basis, so I'll leave it for another time...

Finally, if winter ends up showing up and you feel like eating chestnuts, there are twenty-eight stalls scattered around Barcelona. You can even see their location on the website of the City Council. After all, they are and have always been part of our landscape!

The fountain of...Canaletes?

Continuing with the subject of  the previous post, today I am writing about another place where the people from Barcelona usually meet (if we are able in the middle of so many people) when we go to the city center. It is, of course, the fountain of Canaletes.

Formerly, when the city was still walled, there was a water fountain at the top of La Rambla, that brought water from Collserola. This source, which at first was inside a building, was at some time diverted, flowing thus outside, and it was very crowded with people coming from the whole city. The water was coming down a drain (canaleta in Catalan, and therefore its name) to a trough, and it was considered of a very good quality. So the locals queued to take some home, the same way that it happened and still happens in many towns.

Today the water from the fountain is not particularly good, it is supposed to have other properties. Tradition says that whoever drinks from the fountain comes back to the city.

The current fountain of iron, with four springs and a lamp on the top, is not unique. This is a design made ​​for the Universal Exhibition of 1888 and there are currently more than 15 distributed around the different districts of Barcelona. We can also find some outside the city, and even quite far away. This one on the picture, for example, is 12,000 kilometers away. Specifically, in the Plaza de Barcelona, of Buenos Aires, Argentina. A fountain from which, just in case, I drank!

Let's meet at the Zurich!

This is one of the most usual sentences among the locals!

And this is the ritual: you get to Plaça Catalunya by underground or railway, go up the stairs and see if you are the first to arrive. If you are, and you have to wait, there is nothing to worry about: waiting couldn't be more fun.

The Zurich is our cafeteria, and has been forever, and it is been like that for so long that we often take it for granted.

Next year it will be 150 years since its opening as the bar of a train station, the liner that went up Balmes street, although ti was then called la Catalana and was a kind of kiosk that gave service to travelers.

During this century and a half, it has stood there, witnessing the beating heart of the city. Demonstrations, rallies and celebrations, assaults and persecutions, building works and alterations, recordings and concerts, even wars.

But above all, people arriving. People waiting. People looking. People finding people. People getting there and away. Above all, people.

Open for vacation

In August, Barcelona suffers a curious duality. I wouldn't say that the city is empty, and just take a walk through the center to check it, full of tourists. But what we call "els barris, the neighborhoods" are left strangely empty, sleepy, silent. The sign"Closed for Vacation" is repeated on the doors of shops, telling us that the shopkeeper has fled, like almost everyone, and that until September there is no rush.
I feel that this was much more evident a few years ago, when the city's beaches were not a reasonable alternative and holidays for workers were more concentrated during the two central months of summer. Today, first day of September, to take I open this space in which I will try to make a collection of things that the locals recognize as their own, beyond the typical tourist sights. What we do, what we love, what we are.